If you want to have your photo aka a headshot become portrait pyrography. Please e-Mail me a photo to see if it qualifies. Please make sure that you scan the original photo with a minimum resolution of 300 DPI (also called PPI). Make sure it is at least 5″-10″, the bigger the better as it makes the details easier to see. Do not try to upscale or increase the size of a smaller image. The best photos have a good balance of light and shadow. It is that definition that I look for when capturing a likeness. Too much light causes the image looks blank, too much shadow and everything is black. Balance is the key. The rule of a single light source works the best.
How Much Work Goes Into Portrait Pyrography?
Drawing the rough draft with pencil usually 3 hours in itself. Burning in the portrait pyrography details takes a minimum of 20 to 50+ hours. Depending on how much detail and how intricate. As well as whether or not I include a background or texture to the background. Carving out Text or Inlays or other methods can add just as much time to the project. Such as with memorial plaques.
Sealant on the back of the piece takes 24-48 hours (per coat) to cure. Depending on how many coats, I usually go with 1-2 coats. Once the sealant on the back is dry, the Resin on the Front takes 72 hours to cure. With the first 45 minutes being workable time torching out as many forming bubbles as possible. After that, whatever bubbles form are permanent.
Working with Resin.
I like the results of resin on Portrait Pyrography personally. Not only do I think it looks the best. But I feel it provides the highest quality product for that premium feel for the receiver. While I do my best to prevent bubbles over the subject. I find that bubbles in the negative space, background, and where there is live edge are acceptable. As it does not take away from the subject matter. Just something we have to accept as part of the handmade process.
Off-Gassing
Wood is a natural product and is subject to Off-Gassing. There’s not much that I can do about that. I use Kiln Dried Basswood for most projects. But even the torch can encourage bubbles from off-gassing when removing bubbles. It’s a juggling act. If bubbles form over the subject, I may have to sand down the resin. Then recoat it in an attempt to remove the bubbles and salvage the piece. Otherwise, I’d have to start completely over on the wood burning. But you will not have to pay more for the redo or any extra work that derives from those situations. But you will have to wait longer for the piece.
Work Conditions and the Effects on Projects.
Warm and dry conditions are best when working with resin. Aiming for an ideal temperature range of 75-85°F (24-30°C) and ideally with 50% humidity, or below 80%. It’s important to maintain stable temperatures during the first 24 hours to avoid dimples in the cured resin. So sometimes I have to wait to begin this stage of the process. At least until I get a proper studio where I can control the environmental factors. I do not want to rush anyone’s piece. As I truly want to provide you with the best quality portrait pyrography product. Please understand that this takes time. I can provide you with photos of the work in progress as I go for your assurance if you’d like. And to see if I need to start over or redo a step. Usually due to unforeseen circumstances that can arise during the portrait pyrography creation process.
Please see the pricing.